|
The development of a
costume - Calchas
Step 1. References and research
Designers use all sorts of references and research in order to create
designs for costumes. Hayden Griffin has used ideas drawn from the
images on Greek ceramics and other Greek costume research in shaping
his designs for the costumes for Iphigenia. Each actor will wear
a basic costume similar to a Greek Chiton, together with loose trousers,
similar to Thai fishermen's trousers. On top of this 'basic' layers
of more detailed costumes will be added.
The Doric chiton in its most simple form - an oblong of woolen
cloth measuring about twice the width of the wearer from elbow to
elbow, when arms were outstretched and about 18 inches more than
her height. The cloth was folded across at the height of the shoulders.
It was fastened back to front, on each shoulder, with large pins.
Step 2: Costume Drawings
From this research, Hayden then provides costume drawings, which
are interpreted by the wardrobe supervisor, Chris Wilson.
Step 3: Trials and mock-ups
At this point the Designer and the Wardrobe Supervisor work closely
together with the other members of the wardrobe team to decide the
best methods for realizing the design as a costume to be worn in
performance. In this case, the designer has asked for mock-ups to
be created before any firm decisions are made. Mock-ups enable the
designers to choose appropriate ways of tying the chitons, and an
opportunity to match appropriate shaped costumes with appropriate
shaped actors!
Step 4: Patterns
A pattern is cut and the making of the costume is started.
Step 5: Making
The costume is sewn.
Step 6: Fitting costume and dyeing it.
Costume is fitted to the actor before it is dyed the appropriate
colour. A decision was taken in rehearsals that Calchas should have
raven feathers around his neck rather than a goat, so the costume
is now different from the initial drawing.
John Marquez - initial costume fitting as Calchas
Step 7: break down of costume
If required, a costume might be made to look old using mud, or worn,
using a cheese grater.
Step 8: adjustments in Tech week
During the technical rehearsals, Chris Wilson will look at how the
costume is working for the actor and members of the wardrobe team
will make any necessary adjustments to ensure that it is ready for
the Dress rehearsal. Finally the costume is ready for performance.
Step 9 maintenance
Each actor will wear a flesh/body stocking to preserve their modesty
when wearing sheer fabric chitons.
|
